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Kevin Wescott


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Kevin Wescott Horse Training Advice


Question:

My horse won't stand still when I try to get on. What can I do?

Answer:

Take a look at the positive aspects of this situation, first of all. The horse may be "taking care of you" by simply walking off-there are worse things he could do, such as rearing, kicking, bucking, etc. His walking shows that he is not comfortable standing still, and you first of all need to figure out why he feels the need to move. When starting a colt out, I usually encourage him to walk off, because it relieves pressure. When you get on a horse for the first time, you don't want him to get "stuck" or frozen in place, because the pressure will build, and the horse will eventually "blow up" in a buck or run. If the horse truly needs to move to relieve the situation, that's better than the alternative.

Determine what needs to be done so that the horse feels that it's okay to stand still when you get on. You shouldn't have to tell the horse to stand still, he should know when you go to get on that it's time to stand still without being helped. So the idea here is to figure out why the horse is doing it, before attempting to solve the problem. Look at all the reasons that could cause him to move, not just the fact that he moves.

There are several things to try with your horse:

1. Get part way on the horse, and then get off before the horse moves, if you can. Or get all the way on the horse and then get back off. Try to do this without touching the reins, or having to tell the horse to stand still. You may want to try getting on faster, getting on part way, then stepping back down. Or try getting on much slower, and get back down before the horse moves.

2. Make the horse move in a controlled, different direction than he wants to move, and make him move much more than he wants to move. You can longe the horse in a circle around you at a trot for a few minutes, then ask him to stop and stand. Go to him, pet him, but don't pull on the reins or lead rope to make him stand still. Then ask him to longe again for a few more minutes. This time, when you ask him to stop and stand, get on, then get back off. Try to do this without pulling on the reins. If the horse is still determined to walk off as you mount, longe him more. He should become happy to stand near you and allow you to get into the saddle.

3. Get on from a fence, rather than the ground. Attach a lead line to the bit or put a halter on over the bridle so you do not have to use the reins. Use a flag stick or another person on the ground to help move the horse up next to you, in perfect mounting position. If the horse will not come up close to you as you sit on the fence, longe him back and forth in half circles (from the fence on one side of you to the fence on the other side of you). If working alone, using a longe whip or flag stick, you will need to longe one way holding the lead in your "pointing hand", asking him to longe that direction, while encouraging his movement with the longe whip in your other hand. Then when he gets to the fence, switch hands so that you are pointing him back the other direction with the hand holding the lead, and holding the whip with your other hand. Do this for several minutes, then ask him to come up next to the fence into the correct position and stand still. He should remain comfortable and quiet while you reach down and pet him, and get on. Try to avoid holding him there or keeping him from moving. If he needs to leave, he isn't comfortable, and you need to longe him some more. The whole idea is not making him stay as much as working him and moving his feet until he wants to be where you need him.

4. You can also do this using a mounting block, rather than the fence. The idea is to only offer him this one place to stand (right beside the mounting block, in perfect position to get on). As long as he is comfortable, allow him to stand there. If he feels he needs to move, make him longe in a circle around the block. After a few minutes, ask him to stop at the block in the right position. If he is uneasy standing there as you pet him, put a foot in the stirrup, etc, then go ahead and longe a few more circles. Bring him back quicker to that one spot, and ask him to stop and stand. Pet him more, try getting on. If he leaves again (remember, do not hold him there or try to prevent him from moving), then longe him a few circles, and bring him right back to that same spot. Allow him to stand, rest, pet him, and get into the saddle. Keep repeating, bringing him back quicker and quicker to that one spot at the mounting block. He will learn to recognize that the mounting block means he is to stand still. And he will learn that when you go to get on, he doesn't need to go anywhere. It's a time to just stand still.

Finally, always remember to listen to the horse and not what I say on what and how to do things. The horse is always right and I have been known to be wrong. Also as I try to explain this to the reader on paper it will not always come across to the reader the way intended. These are just a couple of things for the reader to do and try, hopefully without getting into too much trouble. If I was to be there with a particular horse I may do none of the things mentioned above, and I might do something I've never done before. Horses are, after all, individuals, and we need to align ourselves according to what they tell us. The reader's horse may say none of these things work or someone has tried that on me before. So the most important thing is to understand why the horse is moving; it is usually a humans fault either past or present--I know that because most people's horses stand quietly to mount. Once again: listen to your horse. Please.


Note: All readers are subject to Liverystable.net's terms of use. Please use common sense when applying any horse training advice or information. Horses are dangerous animals, and extreme care must be taken when working with them. Kevin Wescott, Liverystable.net, or any persons or entities associated with this website will not be held liable for any advice given regarding, or related to, any Horse Training Question. This includes any and all damages to yourself, other people, horses, property, equipment, etc. either directly or indirectly arising from the advice. This includes horse training advice given in any form, whether spoken, written/typed, postal-mailed, emailed, etc. You are responsible for your own safety, as well as that of your horse, your property, equipment, etc. Because of the hazardous risks associated with horses, this advice is intended only for persons who are eighteen (18) years of age or older, and legally able to enter into a binding contract. Any reader agrees to these terms.


Kevin Wescott at a horse training clinic
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